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The founder and namesake of the Chanel brand, she was credited in the post- World War I era with liberating women from the constraints of the " corseted silhouette" and popularizing a sporty, casual chic as the feminine standard of style.
A prolific fashion creator, Chanel extended her influence beyond couture clothing , realizing her design aesthetic in jewellery , handbags , and fragrance. Her signature scent, Chanel No. She is the only fashion designer listed on Time magazine's list of the most influential people of the 20th century. Rumors arose about Chanel's activities during the German occupation of France during World War II , and she was criticized for being too close to the German occupiers.
After several post-war years in Switzerland, she returned to Paris and revived her fashion house. In , Hal Vaughan published a book about Chanel based on newly declassified documents, revealing that she had collaborated directly with the Nazi intelligence service, the Sicherheitsdienst. The family resided in rundown lodgings.
In , he married Jeanne Devolle,  : 16 persuaded to do so by her family who had "united, effectively, to pay Albert. At birth, Chanel's name was entered into the official registry as "Chasnel".
Jeanne was too unwell to attend the registration, and Albert was registered as "travelling". She went to her grave as Gabrielle Chasnel because to correct legally the misspelled name on her birth certificate would reveal that she was born in a poorhouse hospice. When Gabrielle was 11,   Jeanne died at the age of Its religious order, the Congregation of the Sacred Heart of Mary, was "founded to care for the poor and rejected, including running homes for abandoned and orphaned girls".
Placement in the orphanage may have contributed to Chanel's future career, as it was where she learned to sew. At age eighteen, Chanel, too old to remain at Aubazine, went to live in a boarding house for Catholic girls in the town of Moulins.
Later in life, Chanel would retell the story of her childhood somewhat differently; she would often include more glamorous accounts, which were generally untrue. She also claimed to have been born a decade later than and that her mother had died when she was much younger than Having learned to sew during her six years at Aubazine , Chanel found employment as a seamstress.
Chanel made her stage debut singing at a cafe-concert a popular entertainment venue of the era in a Moulins pavilion, La Rotonde. She was a poseuse , a performer who entertained the crowd between star turns. The money earned was what they managed to accumulate when the plate was passed.
It was at this time that Gabrielle acquired the name "Coco" when she spent her nights singing in the cabaret, often the song, "Who Has Seen Coco? In , Chanel worked in the spa resort town of Vichy. Chanel's youth and physical charms impressed those for whom she auditioned, but her singing voice was marginal and she failed to find stage work.
She now realised that a serious stage career was not in her future. Balsan's wealth allowed the cultivation of a social set that reveled in partying and the gratification of human appetites, with all the implied accompanying decadence. Balsan showered Chanel with the baubles of "the rich life"—diamonds, dresses, and pearls. It is said that Capel's sartorial style influenced the conception of the Chanel look. The bottle design for Chanel No. It is believed Chanel adapted the rectangular, beveled lines of the Charvet toiletry bottles he carried in his leather traveling case  or she adapted the design of the whiskey decanter Capel used.
She so much admired it that she wished to reproduce it in "exquisite, expensive, delicate glass". Even after Capel married an English aristocrat, Lady Diana Wyndham in , he did not completely break off with Chanel. He died in a car accident on 21 December In losing Capel, I lost everything. What followed was not a life of happiness, I have to say. Chanel had begun designing hats while living with Balsan, initially as a diversion that evolved into a commercial enterprise.
She became a licensed milliner in and opened a boutique at 21 rue Cambon, Paris, named Chanel Modes. Subsequently, Dorziat modelled Chanel's hats again in photographs published in Les Modes.
In , Chanel opened a boutique in Deauville , financed by Arthur Capel, where she introduced deluxe casual clothing suitable for leisure and sport. The fashions were constructed from humble fabrics such as jersey and tricot , at the time primarily used for men's underwear. Chanel had the dedicated support of two family members, her sister Antoinette, and her paternal aunt Adrienne, who was of a similar age. Chanel, determined to re-create the success she enjoyed in Deauville, opened an establishment in Biarritz in After one year of operation, the business proved to be so lucrative that in Chanel was able to reimburse Capel's original investment.
They had a romantic interlude, and maintained a close association for many years afterward. In , Chanel purchased the building at 31 rue Cambon, in one of the most fashionable districts of Paris.
In , she opened an early incarnation of a fashion boutique , featuring clothing, hats, and accessories, later expanded to offer jewellery and fragrances. By , Chanel owned five properties on the rue Cambon, buildings numbered 23 to She invited them to her new home, Bel Respiro , in the Paris suburb of Garches , until they could find a suitable residence.
Bader was interested in selling Chanel No. They created a corporate entity, Parfums Chanel , and the Wertheimers agreed to provide full financing for the production, marketing, and distribution of Chanel No. For ten percent of the stock, Chanel licensed her name to Parfums Chanel and withdrew from involvement in business operations. It is said that theirs was an immediate bond of kindred souls, and Misia was attracted to Chanel by "her genius, lethal wit, sarcasm and maniacal destructiveness, which intrigued and appalled everyone".
They also shared drug use. By , Chanel had become a habitual drug user, injecting herself with morphine on a daily basis, a habit she maintained to the end of her life. The writer Colette , who moved in the same social circles as Chanel, provided a whimsical description of Chanel at work in her atelier, which appeared in Prisons et Paradis That tuft of curly black hair, the attribute of bull-calves, falls over her brow all the way to the eyelids and dances with every maneuver of her head.
In , Vera Bate Lombardi , born Sarah Gertrude Arkwright ,  reputedly the illegitimate daughter of the Marquess of Cambridge ,  afforded Chanel entry into the highest levels of British aristocracy.
It was an elite group of associations revolving around such figures as politician Winston Churchill , aristocrats such as the Duke of Westminster, and royals such as Edward, Prince of Wales. The duke lavished Chanel with extravagant jewels, costly art, and a home in London's prestigious Mayfair district.
His affair with Chanel lasted ten years. The duke, an outspoken anti-Semite, intensified Chanel's inherent antipathy toward Jews. He shared with her an expressed homophobia. In , Chanel was quoted by her friend and confidant, Paul Morand , "Homosexuals?
I have seen young women ruined by these awful queers: drugs, divorce, scandal. They will use any means to destroy a competitor and to wreak vengeance on a woman. The queers want to be women—but they are lousy women. They are charming! The prince allegedly was smitten with Chanel and pursued her in spite of her involvement with the Duke of Westminster.
Gossip had it that he visited Chanel in her apartment and requested that she call him "David", a privilege reserved only for his closest friends and family. Years later, Diana Vreeland , editor of Vogue , would insist that "the passionate, focused and fiercely independent Chanel, a virtual tour de force," and the Prince "had a great romantic moment together". Chanel built a villa here, which she called La Pausa  'restful pause' , hiring the architect Robert Streitz.
Streitz's concept for the staircase and patio contained design elements inspired by Aubazine , the orphanage where Chanel spent her youth. There is only one Chanel. Goldwyn offered Chanel a tantalizing proposition. Chanel accepted the offer. Accompanying her on her first trip to Hollywood was her friend, Misia Sert. En route to California from New York, traveling in a white train carriage luxuriously outfitted for her use, Chanel was interviewed by Colliers magazine in She said that she had agreed to go to Hollywood to "see what the pictures have to offer me and what I have to offer the pictures.
Both Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich became private clients. Her experience with American movie making left Chanel with a dislike for Hollywood's film business and a distaste for the film world's culture, which she called "infantile".
The New Yorker speculated that Chanel left Hollywood because "they told her her dresses weren't sensational enough. She made a lady look like a lady. Hollywood wants a lady to look like two ladies. Chanel introduced the left-wing Renoir to Luchino Visconti , aware that the shy Italian hoped to work in film. Renoir was favorably impressed by Visconti and brought him in to work on his next film project.
Chanel was the mistress of some of the most influential men of her time, but she never married. She had significant relationships with the poet Pierre Reverdy and the illustrator and designer Paul Iribe. After her romance with Reverdy ended in , they maintained a friendship that lasted some forty years. A review of her correspondence reveals a complete contradiction between the clumsiness of Chanel the letter writer and the talent of Chanel as a composer of maxims Her involvement with Iribe was a deep one until his sudden death in The Chanel couture was a lucrative business enterprise, by employing 4, people.
The boyish look and the short skirts of the s flapper seemed to disappear overnight. Chanel's designs for film stars in Hollywood were not successful and had not enhanced her reputation as expected.
More significantly, Chanel's star had been eclipsed by her premier rival, the designer Elsa Schiaparelli. Schiaparelli's innovative designs, replete with playful references to surrealism , was garnering critical acclaim and generating enthusiasm in the fashion world. Feeling she was losing her avant-garde edge, Chanel collaborated with Jean Cocteau on his theatre piece Oedipe Rex.
The costumes she designed were mocked and critically lambasted: "Wrapped in bandages the actors looked like ambulant mummies or victims of some terrible accident. However, due to the declaration of war by Great Britain on 3 September , the ballet was forced to leave London.
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